A friend sent me a text message that read, “I wish I had as much confidence with my love life as you do with your wardrobe.”
Was that a compliment? Who knows?
It took me a long time to be comfortable enough to dress as I do.
Perhaps I have confidence in my wardrobe because I’ve always been an outcast anyway. Now, I don’t care how many heads turn. What can critics do to me? Ostracize me? Been there. Am there.
I put on what I like, drink, eat, buy, say, do, feel. What I like. Don’t care. I’ve been a pariah. I didn’t die.
When I worked in Washington, D.C., traipsing down the street in crimson wing tips, red-white-blue Thom Browne pants and multi-colored buffalo check shirts wasn’t radical. Having well-tailored clothes was what mattered.
In Alabama, too much pattern, too close a fit or too extravagant a detail leaves you at risk of being a hate crime victim. It’s a shame most men are too cowardly to dress well as a result of cultural ridicule placed on fashion renegades.
The bewildering thing is that it takes so little to be a renegade down here.
For example, I’ve been told: “Patterned trousers are ‘too fancy’ for work,” “No man should ever wear shoes in colors other than black and brown,” “Bow ties aren’t what ambitious men wear,” “Jewelry is for women” and “What does any man need to own besides white shirts, khakis and a navy blazer?”
I’m turning the tide.
Accessories (scarves, gloves, hats, socks, belts and jewelry) are trickling into acceptability. Patterns of all types are being donned. Layering is no longer just for warmth, but also for dimension. Black is cool.
Knowing designers isn’t a blow to “manhood.” Billy Reid? Awesome sportswear. Armani suits? Life goal. Fendi shoes? Quite comfortable. Hermés ties? Can’t imagine a suit without one.
If you’re in doubt, follow these baby steps:
1) TAILOR to fit. Southern men wear things too big. Five essential alterations: hem, sleeve, waist, seat and jacket sides. The brand that made it should alter it.
2) ADD small details: lapel pins, pocket squares, bold watch straps, contrasting buttons, grosgrain trim or bright socks.
3) GET gray shoes. Loafers, boots, wing tips. Suede, leather, cloth.
4) LAYER tone on tone. The column of color makes a subtle statement.
5) LAYER bold under bland. Put your plaids, dots, stripes, prints and bold colors under subdued pieces.
6) BE a bow tie guy. Tie it yourself.
7) MIX textures. For spring, there’s: poplin, twill, seersucker, linen, tropical wool, oxford and silk.
8) GO black, not blue. Suits, trousers, shoes, belts, accessories. All the other guys will have blue. Don’t blend in.
9) PICK a five-color scheme and buy just those. It creates a signature and all your clothes will coordinate. Mine is black, gray, white, navy and orange.
10) BUY a statement piece. Something small that starts a conversation. Mine is an Alexander McQueen skull ring.
Benjamin Arnberg was a luxury and custom specialist at Brooks Brothers in Georgetown, D.C. for two years. He is now a graduate assistant for Auburn student media and can be contacted at arnbebt@auburn.edu.
Do you like this story? The Plainsman doesn't accept money from tuition or student fees, and we don't charge a subscription fee. But you can donate to support The Plainsman.
